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We’re stuffed but want to make the most of our trip with a second lunch, so we take a short walk up the street to Myung Dong Noodle House. But first we make a brief stop at a small, one-woman storefront selling plastic containers of banchan packed with delicious things like cured lotus root and fermented fish guts. The owner of Fort Lee Korean Catering House gives us the tour—showing us photos of her work (and deft knife work)—and we promise to stop by on our way out of town.
Kalguksu with Perilla Seed and Mushrooms
For a packed and lively barbecue experience with ample parking and a koi pond at the door, there’s Dong Bang Grill, a vast restaurant with roomy tables and cushy seating. Whether it’s beef, chicken, shrimp, or pork, an order is grilled tableside, and served with a compelling selection of banchan. Don’t miss the galbi, whether you like it marinated or not.
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Second, people are sitting on the floor of Masil House, a tradition still found throughout Korea, but less in the United States. The “cliffhanger”—a Film History 101 term referring to a moment of cinematic suspense? It originates from early scenes filmed along the nearby cliffs of the Palisades. But, like with the Brooklyn Dodgers four decades later, Southern California came a calling and Laemmle packed up his Bell & Howell Filmo and moved west.
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Yookgaejang Kalguksu
A beef bone broth with spicy sauce, tofu, spam, sausages, pork, vegetables, rice cake, ramen, and a rice. This new barbecue spot in Fort Lee offers beef, pork, and seafood to its grill menu, which includes clams, shrimp, scallops, mussels, and lobster. Among specials, soojaebee jogae tang — clam soup with dumplings, is also available, along with haemool jjim — a soup with monkfish, octopus, clams, shrimp, and crab.
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The restaurant also serves ramyun. Spicy soybean paste soft tofu stew with pork and vegetables. Spicy soft tofu stew with shrimp and clam, squid, mussel and egg assorted vegetables includes one rice.
MD Kalguksu + Haemul Pajeon
This is the kind of Korean specialty shop that you don’t find in rent-squeezed Manhattan. The kalguksu noodles include carrots, green onions, onions, and a bit of seaweed powder. I don't know if it's because the onions were pre-fried, but it's strangely delicious. The staff were also nice and friendly.
A beef bone soup with tofu, spam, sausage, pork meat, rice cake, vegetables, ramyeon, beans, and spicy sauce. Spicy beef bone soup with seafood, vegetables, egg, glass noodles. Homemade noodles with seafood and vegetables in a spicy beef bone soup.
Marinated sweet soy sauce beef soup and mushrooms. Los Compadres is a very small — but elaborately decorated — Mexican restaurant in Ft. A utilitarian restaurant in a strip mall offers warm service and an extensive menu with dishes that mostly highlight tofu that’s made in-house, whether it’s soft, firm, or extra firm. In addition to tofu-based dishes, check out the bibimbap, pancakes, and japchae. Stir-fried shrimp with rice and vegetables and topped with an egg.
MD Kalguksu
The bustling towns of Fort Lee, Edgewater, and Ridgefield continue to be bucolic bedroom communities, but now they are also centers of commerce and gastronomy. In fact, we’d put the Korean barbecue of Ft. Lee against any found in the five boroughs.
Buckwheat noodles with vegetables and spicy sauce. Also comes with a side of marinated pork. Buckwheat cold noodles with spicy sauce. Walking back to our car, we stop back in at the banchan store and made a couple purchases.
Stir-fried kimchi with rice and vegetables and topped with an egg. Steamed pork with sweet and spicy radish kimchi and vegetables, ssamjang. The sauces are unusual, too, as is the giant blue toad mascot sitting near the door on a counter.
Masil specializes in soups and stews, the more rustic, stick-to-your-ribs side of Korean cooking that is sometimes skipped or overlooked for the more popular grilled dishes—known universally as Korean barbecue). Stir-fried black bean sauce with pork and vegetables on noodles. Buckwheat noodles with chilled dipping sauce.
But, no dice, and I tell that I'm not from around these parts and it gets me off the hook. We then drive a quick 13 minutes across the bridge (thankfully still no cones!) back to Manhattan. Fort Lee Koreatown is a world away, but much closer than it seems. Myung Dong Noodle House is a Korea-based chain known for serving a dish called kalguksu, a workaday and delicious soup loaded with knife-cut noodles. The Fort Lee outpost opened in 2013, and on this holy Sunday the place is packed with tables of families, in some instances three generations slurping up wheat noodles swirling around in chicken stock.
Hiram’s is one of New Jersey’s most distinguished purveyors of deep-fried hot dogs, in a setting half roadhouse, half frankfurter counter. Sports fans sit on one side nursing their beers and downing wieners, while customers dash in for carryout dogs on the other side, eaten in cars idling in the side parking lot. The franks come with cheese sauce and a chili-like meat sauce, and the same toppings can grace your fries, as well. Buckwheat noodles with cold soup.
Home made flour noodle with Beef Bone Soup and vegetables. Rice covered with Black bean sauce Pork and vegetables, Egg on the top. Homemade Dumplings, Rice cakes, mixed. There are a couple things you notice right away once walking in. First, the humming tanks of salt water holding schools of menacing eels, which are plucked, butchered, and grilled in a sectioned-off area in the front.
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